Ryogoku — Kokugikan and the Sumo District

Ryogoku sits on the east bank of the Sumida River in Sumida ward, and it is the centre of professional sumo in Japan. The Ryogoku Kokugikan, the sport's main arena, opened on this site in 1985 and seats around eleven thousand.

Three of the six annual grand tournaments are held here, in January, May and September. During those fifteen-day runs the district changes character completely: banners go up along the approach, and wrestlers in yukata walking to and from their stables become an ordinary sight on the street.

Outside tournament season it is a quieter, low-rise neighbourhood. Many sumo stables are based in the surrounding blocks, and the chanko restaurants along the streets — often run by former wrestlers — stay open year round.